Denpasar Heritage Walk: Puri, Museum and Pasar Badung

Ketut worked at the Bali Museum for seventeen years and can read the old Balinese script on the palm-leaf lontar in the collection — which means the museum stops being a room of objects and starts being a set of documents.

The walk starts at Puputan Square, where the Badung royal family walked into Dutch rifle fire in 1906, and Ketut tells that story where it happened. You go through the Bali Museum, the Jagatnatha temple next door, then into Pasar Badung — four floors of the largest traditional market in Bali — and finish at a Chinese temple on the old trading street where Denpasar's Peranakan community has been since the 1800s.

It is all on foot and mostly in shade, with a stop for es campur halfway.